Day 8 Minnesota

Morning came through the vents in the tent. A beautiful sunrise, birds singing, ducks honking and a flurry of activity happening in the forest. This is my favorite part of nature waking up in the morning to the fresh air, although I do admit I was not expecting the temperatures to dip quite as low as they did. It was quite exhilarating to arise in the brisk morning air.  Made a cup of tea, welcomed the morning with sun salutation and namaste!  watching the sun rise over the bluffs. The warmth of the sun was most welcome as it made its way over the horizon.

It was a chilly night of sleep. Keeping warm was an issue. Had it not been for the train horns blowing throughout the night I would have thought I was the only person around for miles. There was a train to the east in Wisconsin and one not to far, it sounded, from the park. They seemed to travel and sound their horns in unison.

Today, off to Barn Bluff and Lake Elmo. Possibly to St. Paul and Minneapolis. Thoreau is said to have climbed Barn Bluff and visited Indian Mounds Park in St. Paul. As it turned out Barn Bluff was teeming with kids cleaning the trails and lake Elmo was further than I wanted to drive and the traffic was heavy. I found myself at the top of the Great River Road "Anishinabe" meaning the Great River, also known as the Mississippi River. Met a wonderful lady at the visitors center, who gave me a plethora of information on the road and the region. I walked around the center, that had displays of the eagles, their habitat, nests and screech. I discovered the early morning screeching I heard was that of the resident eagles. A beautiful, yet eerie song.

Ventured up the memorial drive to the top of Skyline Drive for a view of Barn Bluff that is to the east of memorial park in Red Wing. On top of the bluffs there is a sense of appreciation of how high up you are. And how massive the bluffs are rising up from the earth below. The eagles and hawks soar over the bluffs, circling them continuously. What a sight.

Returned to the camp with the intention of climbing Barn Bluff and visiting Indian Mounds Park in St. Paul in the morning, then heading to South Dakota. A family has moved into the site beside me. They are a bit rowdy. They allowed their dogs to roam in my site. I talked to them a few times, they went to discuss it with the guy at the store. While I was there we started talking about my trip and where I had been. I told him a bit about Thoreau and passed a small book on to him, explained that Thoreau had been through the area 149 years earlier his final excursion. He seemed interested.

As the sun went down I listened to my new neighbors partying, yelling at the kids and the dogs. The cold and the train kept me from getting a good night sleep.

I awoke to something scratching at my tent. When I opened my eyes I couldn't quite focus on what was jumping at the bottom of the tent. When I looked up at the roof of the tent under the rain cover I noticed two small frogs perched on the top. When I stepped outside I noticed there were quite a few around the tent. I was rather amused at my protectors, and let them explore before striking my tent and moving on.

Day 7 Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota

Drove out of Iowa up the Great River Road in Wisconsin into Minnesota on the seventh day of my trip. The Great River Road follows the Mississippi River most of the way. Historic route with many historic signs explaining the settlement of the areas and the battles the native people had with the settlers moving in displacing them.  Many pull outs with breath taking views of the river and the dams along the Mississippi.

I stopped at the Trembelau National Refuge along the way, which is a five mile drive through the prairie, wetlands and natural landscape protected as a refuge for wildlife. The area was once used to farm, but since has been restored to its natural prairie setting. Again, a nice population of the red winged blackbirds. Also saw egrets, hawks and other migratory birds.

After driving through Alma, a small Wisconsin town, the bluffs begin to rise out of the landscape. Huge beautiful rocks towering over the highway. Laura Ingalls Wilder grew up in Pepin, WI. I stopped and read the sign posts about her life, then headed down the Laura Ingalls Highway toward Red Wing. I stopped at a roadside stand and bought some strawberries that were the best I had ever had.

Interesting rock formations drew me in. North of Maiden Rock a bow and arrow is outlined in rocks. Historians aren't quite sure what the significance of the bluff is, how it came to have the bow and arrow or who created it, since, according to the sign it wouldn't have been their custom to create such a design.

I drove into Minnesota around 3 PM. I began looking for a place to camp. The Frontenac State Park was the first camping ground I came to and was full of RV's and not many tent campers. I continued down the road to Hok-si-la Park.

Hok-si-la is a community park just north of Lake City, and one I had read about in a tent camping book I had picked up before I left. They don't want a lot of traffic in the park. They allow you time to unload your vehicle and park outside the park. Hok-si-la is a community park, beach, and playground. The best feature of the park is no vehicle traffic allowed, which makes for enjoyable hiking and exploring without the nuisance of vehicles. Very peaceful, secluded sites tucked into wooded areas that provide privacy and a sense of solitude.  Well the first night I was the only one in the park camping. It was very quiet and serene. My site was up on a cliff that over looked Pepin Lake and to the east I could see the bluffs I drove by earlier in the day.

I set up camp, fixed a bite to eat as an eagle flew over head. I was so amazed and in awe I forgot to grab my camera. Very unfortunate, he flew so close, right over head.  Beautiful massive bird soaring overhead was a beautiful experience, and I felt a good sign. I later learned that there is a refuge at the end of the park for the bald eagle that was instrumental in returning them to the area.

I watched the sun dip slowly behind the trees, the birds singing and the people enjoying the sunset on the beach below. The temperature seemed to plummet with the sun. I realized that I wasn't quite prepared for the chilly night temperatures.

Day 6 -- Prairie du Chien

Across the river into Wisconsin is Prairie du Chien a small neat historic town on the Upper Mississippi. I was interested in finding Thoreau's trail in Prairie du Chien. After stopping by the visitor's center and the historic society talking to people who knew the history of the town and spinning my wheels I decided to explore the town to see what I could find.

Thoreau is said to have embarked at this point on the Mississippi up to Minnesota. No one seemed to have any information on his trip thorough the area. Just to the west of Prairie du Chien is an island called St. Feriole. Along the river is an old railroad and depot that I thought might have been the depot where Thoreau disembarked. The historic signs along the river walk described the history of the river and the area.



The sign in front of the Old Depot Station describing the history of the depot which moved there in 1857 that connected the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River, so this could have been where Thoreau embarked on his journey up the Mississippi.

Day 6 --Iowa

Up early and off to the Effigy Mounds. the center was closed but the trails were open. I headed to the Yellow River trail and saw why it was called the Yellow River. Brisk morning air the tail was more of a walkway that followed an interpretive nature trail. Bull frogs were singing their early morning songs along with a variety of birds calling back and forth to one another. I stopped on the bridge to listen to the birds and felt a knocking and rocking on the bridge. When I looked two young male deer emerged, their small antlers still covered in velvet running up over the bridge and into the thicket on the other side of the bridge splashing the whole way. Perhaps they thought my camera was a weapon and they were heading out of dangers way.

I ventured up the trail to the Effigy Mounds. The Effigy Mounds are up on the cliffs overlooking the Yellow and Mississippi Rivers. A fairly strenuous trail, the first six tenths ascents up to the cliff overlook in a zig zag, not quite switchback fashion. Once at the top the view is breathtaking, Praire du Chein and the Mississippi River. One wonders how they managed to carry materials to make the mounds. The mounds were a extraordinary sight to see. Although they cannot be truly appreciated from the ground level, as they appear to just be mounds with no discernible shape.

Hiking through the mound trails deer were running in and out of the trees.  Often startling me, as I'm sure I did them.

Day 5 -- Illinois to Iowa

Clouds and rain this morning. Coffee with Betty and her mum, Pat. Pat is such a wonderful woman, great mother and wonderful friend, not only to me but to her children and grandchildren. So understanding and connected to her family. And loving, so very loving, one of those people that love just radiates out of her pores.

Packed the car as Pat tried to unload everything from the refrigerator into my bags. Did I say she was loving? Gave me the greatest chuckle. "You have to eat." The rain came, but I headed off. Betty and I had our good byes. Pat gave me the greatest hug I think I have ever received followed by all the "mother" stuff. Be safe, be careful, keep in touch, watch for bears, lions, tigers. Ok, yes the last part I made up, actually comes from one of my favorite movies. She was so worried about me setting off on my own camping and hiking.

As I left I thought she is like the mother I always longed for. Loving, caring, compassionate. So I set off with a hug, a kiss and a "I love you sweetie." Looking back now that set the tone for my trip the rest of the time on the road.

I crossed over into Wisconsin. Saw a red-winged black bird. I love those birds. I always think of the roadtrip the father and son took in Robert Pirsig's Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. The touch of color that graces their wings, I believe Pirsig writes about it. And what inspiring music they sing to the world. As I watched he sang the most beautiful song. Beautiful picturesque farmland and more wind turbines. I stopped to marvel at the farmland, the diminishing farmland. I was drawn to the farmland. What a perfect world it would be to raise our own food and live with the earth instead of against it. One reason I love farms, I suppose, is my love of cows. Beautiful. In Fenimore I stopped, rested, admired the quiet solitude of nature in what appeared mostly unforgotten America. Pure nature. Route 18 West.

Wisconsin Backroads

Passing through dozens of small towns in western Wisconsin arriving in Prairie du Chein in the late afternoon. One hundred and forty nine years ago Thoreau was here. I sat at the visitors center looking out at the Mississippi River thinking about his trip, what was he thinking and seeing when he was here? What did he experience, sense and feel? Who were the people he met? What did the air smell like then?

I had a place for the next couple of nights in Harpers Ferry, Iowa. Harpers Ferry was an interesting town. Not truly a ghost town, but on the verge. The town isn't much larger than the mobile home park I lived in in Maine. The homes were small many in dire need of repairs. I stayed in a cabin. Quite striking for what I paid to stay there. Although the view was of old deteriorating RV's and mobile homes. Two floors, hunting motif, kitchen, and then if you wanted to cook outside all the amenities of a campsite outside the door.

There was also this interesting wooden trellis like structure with a skull that I found interesting. Ever since I found the goat skull on the beach in Japan I have a weird fascination about skulls.

Skull in Harper's Ferry, Iowa

Day 4 -- Chicago

With Betty and her friend we walked around Chicago. Beautiful waterfront. Newly married couple having their picture taken at the observatory. We drove by the location of the St. Valentine's Day massacre, of course the building is no longer there, but we sat and wondered about life in those times. It sounds so rowdy, raw and turbulent, but I wonder if it was much like the times of today. How many lives did it touch? Life is often in upheaval, but I wonder how many people it affects. I asked my parents about the sixties, another turbulent, uncertain time in history and life, yet they didn't recall any thing specific about the era. People don't seem to be awake; they don't seem to experience life. We walked through the only building that survived the Great Chicago Fire. Very impressive building, huge, massive architecture. Dinner on the river in the shadow of Trump Tower, again a massive structure made of glass. Looking up we noticed that there appeared to be windows open. What the view must be like up there.

The Blackhawks, who had just won the Stanley Cup blanketed the city. Every shop had NHL memorabilia, shirts, jerseys, photos, newspaper stories of the historic match with the Flyers. The city was radiating with energy. I love that about cities, so alive and awake.

After dinner Betty's friend wanted to walk down John Dillinger's alley; that's not the name of the alley, but the event. I can't recall the name of the alley, but it's historic. We walked through the theater district then down the alley they say Dillinger walked down that fateful night. Her friend recounted stories of the alley being haunted. The strange thing is I could feel the hair stand up on the back of my neck as he pointed out the "shadow" on the wall that supposedly was left by Dillinger. Was it because he mentioned it or did I really experience a chill there? Urban legends? Who knows. Interesting experience.

Theater District

We came across Millennium Park.  Betty called it the "bean," which is what it is. A mirror in the shape of a bean that you can walk through and see the reflection of every aspect of the city.  I walked through it looking at the reflections and the people watching their reflections. Watching people is one of my favorite past times. It was a beautiful night.  Great time, albeit short, in Chicago. A wonderful day with a great friend. Catching up in such a historic and beautiful setting created a great memory. Thanks Betty. 

Chicago Bean

Part Two

Heading to Chicago I drove through Indiana where I encountered a wind farm. The farm went of for miles before I thought to stop and marvel at them. What is ironic is I was listening to Thomas Friedman's "Hot, Flat and Crowded" on CD. At the moment I was passing this wind farm Friedman was explaining wind energy. It was an amazing sight to see these and think we have finally caught on. Or have we? Are we finally learning to live with nature instead of destroying it? Or is too little too late? Those were the thoughts I had watching the wind churn these huge beautiful, to me anyway, wind turbines. My fear is that we have abused and manipulated the earth for so long I'm not sure she is that forgiving. But I don't have a science to degree to truly argue this point. 


There are many who still don't believe there is a climate problem. Their eyes are closed. How do you go about opening them? 


Friedman says it's "not a green revolution, but a party." How do we turn it into a revolution? 


I arrived in Gary, Indiana just in time for rush hour traffic.  The remaining miles crept along until I finally reached my friend's house. What a wonderful experience seeing Betty after so many years. As we hugged the years seemed to melt away. We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening catching up on each others lives and dreams. And what a joy to see her mother "Pat" again. Pat is the mother I always wished I had, so loving, compassionate and caring.

Day Three Ohio to Illinois

Another early morning. I was up and out of camp before many had ventured out. On my way out a man in a cabin behind mine waved a friendly farewell. Hocking Hills State Park was just a few miles down the road. I drove to the trailhead and walked down the path to the waterfalls at Ash Cave. A massive overhang that creates an open cave. I sat and listened to the falling water as the birds sang in the trees and the animals scurrying about in the forest; then took the path to the top of the waterfall looking down into the cave. 


Old Man's Cave, a gorge containing a cave that a man lived in at one time is four miles from Ash Cave. I walked down into the gorge as the morning sun streamed through the trees. 

The upper falls are a short walk from Old Man's Cave. This fall is larger than the one at Ash Cave that falls into a stream that feeds into the gorge. As the gorge narrows the force of the water creates a whirlpool that the water flows backward in, and received the name "Devil's Bathtub." As you walk around the trail you can see how it looks like a tub.  I didn't have enough time to thoroughly enjoy the park, but it was a lovely morning walk. Very peaceful and relaxing. 

Hocking Hills State Park

This trail can be a little difficult to find. As I came out of the trail a group of men asked me about the trail, so I pointed them in the direction of the trail and passed my trail guide off to them. Crossed the street and headed to Chicago to see my good friend Betty.  

Day Two

The first one up, a quick short run around the campground then watched the sun finish it's ascent over the hills of Ohio. 


The day consisted of touring southern Ohio's mound culture. I began at Chillicothe where I talked to a ranger who gave me a map of other native American burial mounds I could visit. I drove the back country roads of Ohio looking at mounds left my ancient cultures listening to the playlists on my ipod when Chrissie Hynde started singing "Back on the Chain Gang," I was overcome with emotion hearing her belt out those lyrics. I pulled off the road, climbed out of the car and looked over the yellow fields feeling I was in the middle of nowhere, or at least I could see it. I bent down and cried missing my sister, when a man came around the back of my car asking if he could be of assistance. Ah, one of life's embarrassing moments--someone catching you in a private moment. I'm not sure who was more embarrassed. After we spoke for a few minutes and he was assured I was going to be fine I regained composure and set off to find the Serpent Mound. 


No mound was quite as impressive as the Serpent Mound. Serpent Mound is the largest effigy mound found to date. The trail around the mound is paved and not as spectacular as when you walk up the lookout tower. From the lookout tower you can see the entire mound that, as one would surmise is in the shape of a greatserpent. 

I drove back to the campsite stopping at other mounds along the way. This area has so many mounds they truly are extraordinary. I was fascinated with them and stopped many times to just breath in the atmosphere and wonder about the culture long ago.


Back at the campsite I had a bite to eat and watched the people mulling around preparing dinner and rounding up children. I watched the the sun set over the horizon as the moon rose, very close to nearly full rising in the sky. a full moon to start my journey. The fireflies came out flitting through the night air. They were always my favorite part of summer growing up. 

The Journey begins...

My journey begins. I couldn’t sleep. The heat, the excitement, the anticipation of what was ahead. Showered, packed up the car and took one look around wondering what it would feel like when I returned. I looked up at the stars in the sky, got in the car and drove west. 

I stopped for gas, as I cleaned the windows the song “I remember you,” played 


I'll remember you

It was you who came right through

It was you who understood

Though I'd never say

That I done it the way

That you'd have liked me to

In the end

My dear sweet friend

I'll remember you.


and I thought of my sister Virginia. I drove off into the darkness with tears in my eyes thinking of how I missed her. And how perfect that song fit us. She always understood and supported me, but not necessarily the way I did things. 

 The sunrise over the farmland in western Pennsylvania was a welcome sight. The fields seemed to glow with the more sunlight as the fog laid just on top of the earth. I drove through West Virginia into Ohio. I followed the Covered Bridge Scenic Byway, which wasn’t very scenic. I stayed in a cabin that night a few miles from the Hocking Hills State Park. Ohio is beautiful, hot and humid, the bugs are voracious, but it is a beautiful place nonetheless. 

As I sat on the porch of my cabin a bird came to sit in the plant just above my head singing a beautiful song. He is brown with a reddish-orange chest, and rather small like a finch, although I don’t know much about birds. 

Pennsylvania Farmland

The Open Road

AFOOT and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.

Walt Whitman~ Song of the Open Road

I take to the open road.

Why?

To explain why I'm here and writing this is I lost a very dear sister in December who was so much more than a sister. She was a sister, a mother and the greatest friend I ever had. She was there to console me in times of sadness and ever present to fix my scrapped knees and broken hearts. It was such a tragic loss the day I heard she was no longer with us. I don't believe in heaven or hell. I believe we are here for a reason and everyone in our life is here to teach us. Virginia was the greatest teacher. I know she is around me everyday, but still there are days I miss her physical body and presence so much it hurts. A physical pain.


So I decided to take a trip. She had so many dreams of places to go and experience that she never was able to finish. So I did this to connect with her and find some peace and solace, and meaning to life.