Rain-drops falling on Ktaadn

In the night we were entertained by the sound of the rain-drops ... and awakened with a drop or two in our eyes. HDT The Maine Woods.

I have a re-newed appreciation for Thoreau and The Maine Woods. It had been a while since I read The Maine Woods, and have found many parallels with Thoreau and his experience there. Quite interesting to reflect on.

Thoreau continues that they decided to wait for fair weather. Being I was already there I decided to strike my tent and try another time. Baxter State Park closes in mid October, so perhaps when it reopens in the spring or summer.

MRE anyone??

When I was in Wyoming, Steve, my daughter's significant other, or as he says my future son-in-law, gave me an MRE to take camping. This was his birthday present to me a BBQ Veggie Patty MRE. Very sweet. I have been toting this around since July, so decided to try it out. The package is huge. The instructions say to eat 2 - 3 of these a day!! Now this was an interesting experience. I am used to Backpacker Pantry open and pour. For a while I was baffled by the instructions. Heaters? Ummm ... The MRE is a complete meal, including heat, one which I could not begin to consume at once, not to mention there were some foods I would not consume unless I was truly in dire circumstances. Grape drink? Iced tea? Very interesting stuff I must say. Comes with this very nifty heater that is activated with water. After eating my veggie patty I used the heater to warm my hands. Quite amusing really.  

Rocks and Leaves in the Abol Stream

the colors of nature awaken the spirit.


"To be awake is to be alive. I have never yet met a man who was quite awake. How could I have looked him in the face?" HDT

Abol Stream

I camped in Ktaadn for two nights. Rained out of the third night. During my sojourn I filtered water from the Abol Stream just steps from my site.

Drinking straight from a water source is an incredible experience. Water symbolizing growth, change, and transformation, yet also an element we cannot live without. I contemplated this when I sat there filtering water for nourishment. Nourishment in more ways than one. It has been a very transformative year for me. So many changes, experiences, emotional tides. Demons to conquer and let be. I wanted to stay in the Maine Woods longer it was quite a spiritual place.  The forest is so silent, it's loud, my ears ring. I could hear my sister's laughter in the wind and feel her silent demeanor sitting by this stream.

The one about my beautiful friend

Heading on to Utah. The landscape from Twin Falls through southern Idaho is breathtaking, even from a major highway, which I decided to travel on to make better time. The mountains in Utah just took my breath away. The sun dancing on them, glistening, reflecting, the golden color of the rock awakens you, you feel awake and alive. Every cell of your body just pulses like a heart beat, or a river. My friend is like that -- so alive.

She is the most beautiful person in the world -- to me anyway. I wonder at times if she knows the effect she has on me, or others. When you look at her she is just the most stunning human being. She radiates such beauty, love, kindness, so full of spirit that comes from deep inside and explodes. I'm not referring to just her physical appearance. That too is stunning. We met several years ago and clicked, as though we were old friends. Like all friendships ours went through  a test. We had a falling out a while back, but now we're back on an even keel. We didn't communicate with each other for a while, but I thought of her often. Dreamt about her, wondered what she was doing at certain moments. Hoped she was happy. Looking back now the years that we didn't speak were the loneliest, saddest time of my life. I missed her deeply. Deep in my heart I always knew we would come full circle and be friends again. And here I was heading to see her after thirteen years!

We have this wonderful, beautiful connection that you just can't explain in words. Recently I read a Hindu quote that explains it to a degree -- "There exists something that cannot be described." Emerson's explanation of a friend, and a favorite quote of her's: " A friend is one before whom I may think aloud." I was so excited about seeing her again. I arrived in her city and seemingly hit every light leading to her house. She lives in the most beautiful place. Surrounded by mountains and nature. I felt like a child with great anticipation sitting at a light that never seemed to change. In front of me the most beautiful mountain towering over the city. Finally I arrived at her house, knocked on her door and there she was, so beautiful. She doesn't seem to realize what a beautiful sight she is. We hugged, so amazingly that it goes through you. I missed her so much. Moments like this, times reconnecting with such wonderful friends who have made such a difference in your life are so meaningful, so extraordinary. I've experienced this more than once on my trip. I feel so fortunate in many ways. I wonder at times what it all means, why am I experiencing this now. It is a very fulfilling experience and time for me. I feel so full of love. I am bursting. I feel blessed at this moment. 

We chatted over tea and I pulled a rock out of my jeans pocket that I collected in Idaho. One of those rocks that just seemed to jump out at me. When I walk I like to roll a rock around in my hand and try to experience it's energy. Wondering how it came to be in the place I plucked it from. She gasped…we both love to collect rocks, but only learned this about each other at this moment in time. I learned later she has much more of a rockhounding problem than I do! She showed me a recent rock collection she had, and we talked about the rocks and their nature and how beautiful they are. Their shape and size, and energy, and how they can sometimes speak to us. We caught up with each other's lives and dreams; we talked about nature and life, and also where to go the next day. 

A friend may well be reckoned the masterpiece of nature. RWE

From Idaho to Utah

I contacted my friend in Utah to ask about coming down to visit earlier than I had planned. I checked out the Hagerman Fossil Beds in Hagerman, Idaho. There is a drive along the fossil beds, along route 30, which follows the Snake River from Buhl to Hagerman, beautiful views of the Snake River and the fossil beds and thousands of springs. The geology of Idaho is stunning. Huge boulders towering over the roadside, the massive gorges the deep color of the rock, and the springs that flow from the rock. I really get into how that all evolved. At the visitor's center the ranger told me about the geology of the area, and seeing how interested I was suggested I visit Balance Rock about 17 miles away. Very impressive.


I followed Rt 30 north from Twin Falls through Buhl to Hagerman. Thousands Springs consists of volcanic rock with springs along the entire stretch of road between Buhl and Hagerman.  I went to the visitor's center in Hagerman. The ranger explained the geology of Hagerman. The area was called Lake Bonneville millions of years ago, which became the Great Salt Lake. The area was excavated to find fossils of life there millions of years ago. The largest concentration of horse fossils have been found in the fossil beds around Hagerman.  According the monument:


 "30 complete horse fossils and portions of 200 individual horses. Internationally significant Monument protects world's richest late Pliocene epoch (3 - 4 mya) fossil deposits: over 220 species of plants and animals! Glimpse life before the last Ice Age and view earliest appearance of modern flora and fauna."


After the fossil beds I drove to Balance Rock. The drive to Balance Rock was through farmland and open landscapes. Beautiful, neat, luscious farms. One farm had a line of cows feeding from a trough that was picture perfect, however with no place to pull over and take a shot of them I continued on. Balance Rock is a 40 ton wind carved rock, 48 feet tall that is balancing on a 3 foot base  by 17 inches of rock according the ranger. It looks like a man with a very bad hair do.  I stood under it looking up at this most impressive phenomena I think I ever saw thinking about it falling..... 

Before Balance Rock there is a park where people were camping and picnicking. A family was having a family reunion. The park is situated in between massive rocks much like the balance rock, although none of the rocks were balancing as precariously as Balance Rock.

Rock boulder towering over Balance Rock Park

I left Balance Rock and headed to Utah. 

July 22 Day 30!

I got up before anyone in the park sat on the river looking over at the Washington coast, and had Thai soup for breakfast. The reflections were beautiful. Took the tent down and headed out. Said good bye to one of the other bikers I talked to the night before and the couple I sat on the river with.  He told me to be safe and have a great experience. I left as they were packing up their bike. Very fun couple. 

I decided to head toward Oregon. No destination in mind. 

I drove along the Columbia Gorge. Stopped and looked at some of the falls along the way. Took the scenic route out to the coast. Unable to locate a campsite I pulled into a rest stop and rested for a while. I headed back to Idaho. Saw signs for the John Day Fossil Beds so I stopped to check them out. 

The scenic byway winds through the gorge climbing up switchbacks. 

Waterfall along the Columbia Gorge. 

The rock formations at John Day were stunning towering over the roadway. I headed back to Idaho taking a scenic route from John Day to Boise. 

I drove around looking for the camps in a travel book I had with me, but no luck. I eventually found a place to stay in Jerome. I had a great night sleep. 

July 21, 2010

Woke early to the scurrying of some critter outside the tent. It scurried into the wood when I emerged from the tent. Struck the tent and hit the road by 7 am. Headed to Boise to Hwy 95. Hwy 95 in Idaho is a winding mountain road which didn't make for great driving time; the scenery more than made up for the slow driving time. 

Glenn's Ferry, ID

I stopped in the small town of New Meadows had a chai in a quaint little coffee shop then headed to Riggins. 

The wind was kicking up again. Passed the 45th parallel just south of Riggins. Continued through some construction and into Riggins. A small town on the Salmon River. 

Stopped and walked around a little, then headed up to the Nez Perce National forest. Went for hike up to White Bird Battlefield, the first battle of the Nez Perce war. I headed to Nez Perce National Park climbing up more mountain roads. Walked around the Nez Perce park, then started looking for a place to camp for the night. 

I saw signs for the Hell's Gate State Park. Was able to find a site fairly quickly right on the Snake River. It was too hot to set up the tent, so I sat on the picnic table had a drink of water and read. I looked to see I could find a way down to the river, but did see a path. I started setting up the tent. A couple walked by and said hello. I saw them walk down a path and disappear. When the man re-emerged I asked him if there was a path to the river. He said there was and that I was welcome to join them. So I followed him down to the river. 

He and his wife were traveling from Washington state to Kansas.  It was their twenty eight wedding anniversary, high school sweethearts. Very interesting, cool, open couple. We sat on the Snake River talking about life and travel. He offered me a beer. We sat and had a beer on the river talking more. At times soaking our feet in the river to cool off.  They told me about the trip they took down the Snake River looking at the petrogylphs and the bluffs along the river. He told me Hell's Canyon was the deepest gorge in America. The man asked me where I was heading and where I had been so I told them about my trip, my sister and the crazy year I had.  Interesting guy. He said an interesting thing sitting there on the river, that my niece had said to me before I left, but he said it so eloquently that it touched me.   

"When you lose a child, man it's like -- your life is gone, you lose your parents and shit man you think 'where did I come from?' No evidence of who brought you here. But …. (long pause, heavy sigh, he looked out at the river, took a sip of his beer, and then looked at his wife) a close sibling, that is your present, your past and your future--poof, gone man!, just GONE! forever--your future I mean. Wow that's a tough one. Why does life dish this drama out to us." I never forgot that conversation with him. It rolled over in my head several times during my travels. 

We both headed back to our sites and eventually retired. 

July 20, 2010 -- Idaho

Long day of driving. Heavy fog on I-80 caused me to pull off into the rest area. The rest area has a huge bust of Abraham Lincoln who appears to watching the traffic flow down the highway.

Through Wyoming to Idaho. I stopped at Fossil Butte before crossing into Utah and eventually Idaho. Fossil Butte is a small monument dedicated to the fossil beds there. The area was once under water. Around the building are signs that explain fossil and geologic history. I passed into Utah drove along side Bear Lake a beautiful blue lake well used by boaters and other water sports enthusiasts.

I planned to camp at City of Rocks just over the Utah/Idaho border, but couldn't locate the camping ground, followed several dirt roads that ended in farms, or roads that were impassable with my car. So I headed further north in search of a place to stay for the night and eventually Riggins, Idaho.  I took a wrong turn off of I-84 which lead to Shoshone Falls. Beautiful falls along the Snake River in Twin Falls, Idaho. I stopped, walked around a bit and took some shots of the falls.

After seventeen hours of driving I came across a state park to camp at over night. Not many people camped there. Beautiful park, great views and quiet. Night came quickly, I set up my tent, washed my face and fell fast asleep.

Day 27!

Car packed and ready to head to Idaho.

July 18, 2010

Lunch at a Nepalese Restaurant. Wonderful atmosphere, very peaceful. So why doesn't my girl seem at peace. Always a frustration for me. Wondering....

Bean noticed the prayer flags along the wall and said to me "those are the flags at Mum-mum's house." What an interesting thing for her to recall. I do have Tibetan prayer flags hanging around my house. It's amazing how young brains work, what they remember and associate with people and places. Intriguing.

July 17, 2010

Headed back to Cheyenne through Yellowstone National Park, as Jamie wanted to check out Cody, Wyoming. We stopped briefly in Yellowstone, too many people and we were in Yellowstone a few years earlier.

The Shoshone National Forest was breathtaking. Absoroka Range is made of huge rock formations, many resembling cliff dwellings. We discussed how much they reminded us of the Gila Cliff dwellings in New Mexico. The towering cliffs makes your mind wander to another time and place, cultures long gone. We wondered about the first people traveling through the area on horseback in uncharted territory. How brave and exhilarating  that must have been. So rugged and beautiful.

Cody wasn't all we were expecting. We did venture through the museum. Interesting exhibits on the history of the land, wildlife and early explorers. Bean loved the huge animals. We let her shoot a rifle--thrill of thrills. She could be dangerous in a few years when she figures out how to really handle a weapon.

I took over driving from Cody to Casper. Highway 20 winds through the most amazing canyons. Was difficult to drive at times I just wanted to take in the views and look at the ancient rocks and canyons that dropped off just off the road. A sign I drove by explained the canyon rock was pre-cambrian, millions of years old. Pre cambrian rock on one side and beautiful flowing river on the other. The day was heating up.

Driving along I was taken back to the different landscapes along the way. I am always in awe of nature. Emerson's nature came to mind driving through vast landscape of Wyoming  "all mean egotism vanishes. I become a transparent eye-ball. I am nothing. I see all."  (RWE) It does seem you see all when you're in nature. Your senses seem awakened and alive. Pulsing. This day I woke in the mountains, through the forest and hot springs of Yellowstone, the rock cliffs of the Shosone forest, into precambrian rock canyons through small western towns to the prairie. There is nothing for miles just the road, nature and the natural landscape. It's always refreshing and uplifting to see the undisturbed land so vast unfolding in front of me. It's a peaceful feeling.

July 16, 2010

Had a great night of sleep. I love sleeping and waking up in nature. It was freezing. My 40* sleeping bag wasn't cutting it. I heard Bean moaning at one point. I think she was probably cold too.

Waking up on a chilly morning in the Tetons

Lesson learned ... 40* sleeping bag is not nearly sufficient enough in high altitudes. When I purchased equipment I didn't really expect to be into this nomadic camping thing quite so much. It had been years since I had been camping and I forgot how much I really dig camping and nature. It is exhilarating to wake up in nature, the crisp fresh air, the birds singing, the animals scurrying about.

I'm sure my sister is looking down thinking how crazy I am. She was not an outdoors, nature person. She was a four walls and a bed kind of gal. Yet I feel her smiling. She is always around me.

As we ate breakfast a squirrel jumped up on the table to say "good morning." Bean's eyes lit up with delight. I love watching her experience something new and exciting. The world is this great big place that she is exploring and learning about every moment. So much fun to watch. Like being a child again. My girl had that look of young excitement seeing the squirrel jump up and investigate.  Great memories.

Looking for rocks to toss.

We drove through the Tetons. Jamie skipped rocks in Jackson dam, and Bean attempted too by picking up big rocks and throwing them into the dam. Not quite getting mom's technique down.  Jamie is good at skipping rocks. Up to Signal Mountain had a nice lunch then up to the overlook, beautiful view. I took a picture of Bean pointing to the mountains. The expression on her face was fun. Anything to amused Mum-mum.  Driving down from Signal Mountain was beautiful. My sense felt heightened by the air and the trees and the beauty of the place was just breathtaking.

After driving through the park and checking out the visitors center, again too many people, we drove to Jackson looking for blankets and camping supplies. On the way back we had a DQ. Mmmm. My new addiction. 

Back at the camp we unwound and built a fire. Beautiful day. 

July 15, 2010

The Grand Tetons. Long drive to the Tetons from Cheyenne, construction, traffic, then the masses of people. Didn't really like the campsite we found, crowded, too many RV's and very KOA like. After we settled in I made a backpacker dinner. Jamie was quite impressed with the Jetboil and the dehydrated dinner. My favorite piece of equipment -- the Jetboil. Amazing tool.

When the sun went down it got down right chilly. Jamie built a fire, we roasted marshmallows and relaxed. Then off to bed. Bean was so excited to sleep in her princess sleeping bag. Tackiest thing ever, ah to be a little girl again and believe in princes and princesses and happily ever after.

Day 22 ~ Bastille Day.

Happy Bastille Day!!! I turn 50 today. That is a mind blowing realization. Whoa. And I've been traveling for 22 days.

I don't feel fifty at all. I planned going for a hike today, however, after a run and packing for the Tetons the day got away from me. Nonetheless I decided to take drive down I-80 just to see what I might come across along the way. I stopped at the visitors center where I ended up talking to a very sweet lady. I told her about my travel so far and she suggested I take a drive up the Snowy Range, a scenic drive into the Snowy Range mountains.

The road up to the scenic byway wasn't very interesting. And unfortunately I had forgotten my camera. I did have my camera phone though. The ascent is pretty significant climbing up to the range. Breathtaking views! The overlook tower was beautiful. I was shocked how cold it felt when I got out of the car, and the wind, again the wind whipping around. A granite marker is dedicated to passengers who perished there in 1955. Jim verified, thank goodness for Dr. Google, it was a DC-4; at the time of the accident it was the worst air disaster.

I noticed a sign 10,300 feet. I got out to take in the view. The air was cold, and exhilarating! Was it the beauty of nature? Or the high altitude, lack of air, my body wondering what the heck I was doing? I was really digging it though. Awesome feeling being there.  I came upon Mirror Lake. The name was befitting. I was indeed a mirror. Snowy Range was reflected in the lake like a mirror. Snow was piled at the edge of roadway. Now that was a first making snowballs on my birthday in the middle of July! I walked around the lake a while and found a trail that warned of attempting after 3 PM. I want to come back and hike it sometime though. Beautiful place.

At the visitors center I learned about Saratoga Springs. I saw a sign for it so I decided to check it out. I drove down the dirt road that led away from the scenic byway back to I-80 to Saratoga Springs. The road eventually becomes gravel then paved; not too bad really. I drove through Saratoga Springs a small western town that ends at the hot spring complete with an Sporting Goods/Cafe. The iced drinks advertised on the sandwich board near the road looked inviting. I parked at the springs, that appeared to be a pool. It was packed! I followed the path to the springs, not quite what I had imagined. The hot spring was a stream. There were a few ladies bathing in the spring when I got there, but not really anything spectacular, so hopped in my car and headed out. I stopped by the sporting goods place looked around, bought some hiking pants, got an iced coffee and headed back to Cheyenne.

I wasn't expecting a party or cake, or any celebration. I was looking forward to the Grand Tetons. Jamie kept texting me asking me where I was it never dawned on me why. When I got back to her house she had dinner and cake and presents. What a great surprise. We had dinner then dug into some cake, which Bean loved!!! Jamie bought be a great tripod, the one I had been eyeing, but never dreamed anyone would get for me. I was so surprised and elated!!!  And more memory cards, as I was filling them up rather quickly.

It was a great day. A beautiful relaxing drive and walk around Snowy Range and a great time with my girls. I really couldn't ask for more...

July 8 - 13

I spent some time getting to know Cheyenne. Taking off for a run in the morning, which I discovered is quite difficult when you're not used to the altitude. I spent some time in Fort Collins walking around and exploring the small western town. My girl showed me a great sports store, JAX, REI on steroids is the only way I know how to describe it.

Went to Mt. Rushmore with the girl and Bean. Rained and cloudy the entire time. I was able to get one shot of the mountain when the sun came out for a split second. Bean seemed to get a kick out of the stone men.

Went to Crazy Horse memorial, but we weren't impressed with it. It's not completed after 60 years. Also, it wasn't possible to get close to the sculpture and not nearly as impressive at Mt. Rushmore. 

Jamie and I planned to go to the Grand Tetons in a few days to celebrate my 50th birthday.

Day 14 -- July 6th Guernsey and Fort Laramie

After kicking back and unwinding at Jamie's for a few days, catching up, meeting her guy, and hanging with the Bean I looked around for some places to check out. Her guy told me about the Register Cliffs, Oregon Trails ruts and Guernsey. So I headed up toward Guernsey.

The ruts were cut into rock, according to the signs by the pioneers wagon trains as the crossed through Wyoming in the 1800's. The ruts were about 3-4 feet deep. I walked around the site, read the historical posts, then drove another two miles to the register cliffs. The pioneers left their names in a cliff as the passed through. It is now known as Register Cliff. Unfortunately people are still carving their names in the cliffs.I scoured the walls looking for authentic names. Most of the original names are behind chain link fence to deter vandalism; always sad that it is necessary to take such measures. Makes you wonder what is going through someones mind who is vandalizing a part of history.

Several trails cross paths here. The Oregon Trail, of course, the Mormon Trail, California Gold Rush and the short lived, which I was surprised to here, Pony Express.

I headed off to Fort Laramie. A military installation, that also functioned as a prairie town. The fort is mostly ruins today, but I walked around and explored the buildings. The officers quarters, the watering hole, the bakery and the Captain's House still remain. It reminded me of Williamsburg, although at Williamsburg they are actually functional making goods for people to use in modern day. Fort Laramie is more of a historical site. The bakery was operating though. I spoke with the soldier in the bakery who was making bread, as he said, the same way they made it in the 1800's. It tasted like it too.

Sign post on the way to Ft. Laramie

After touring the fort for a couple of hours I headed to the Ayer Natural Bridge. Along the way I passed a truck carrying a turbine blade for a wind turbine. I never really comprehended the size and magnitude of the wind turbine until then. Impressive! And, as I drove along I thought it would be my grandfather's birthday today, and also a good friend of mine. My grandfather moved on when I was 12 years old, but I always remembered his birthday for some reason. I sent my friend Carol a text wishing her a Happy Birthday.

I took the small road to the natural bridge which goes by farmland where of course I stopped and said hello to the cows grazing in the fields. One even said hello back "Moooooo-moawwww." He seemed a little irritated so I went on my way. The road to the natural bridge a winding road, quite narrow with huge drop offs, absolutely no room to make a mistake. When I arrived I found a small park with a few people soaking up the rays and having picnics. One little girl was running around as her parents napped not to far off. There was also a small campground that people camped at free of charge.

The red rocks were stunning. Huge red boulders tower over you. The color was extraordinary. The cliffs dwarfed the natural bridge.  The bridge is in the middle of the park. It separates the camping ground area from the park. It is 20 feet high with a 90 ft span that was carved by a stream that runs through the entire park. I sat on the edge of the stream listening to the water, when the young girl of the sleeping parents came over and started talking to me. She looked to be about 5 or 6 years old and was asking me what I was doing and why I was there. She told me her parents weren't really sleeping, and that they knew what she was doing the entire time. I was very amused that she knew this, but thought her parents probably told her that.

I headed back to Jamie's. About half way there a storm came through. I loved the storms in Wyoming, they were usually short and everything seemed refreshed and new when it quit.

Twelve on the Road~ July 4, 2010

I arrived at Jamie's on July 4th. I drove through Scott's Bluff to Chimney Rock stopping to read the signs of the Oregon Trail and the Mormon's struggle west. I stopped at the Wyoming sign "Forever West," then headed to my girl's place.

Birds and Bluffs of Wyoming

Wyoming is flat. Really flat! This surprised me. It didn't feel like the 4th of July. I thought of Frederick Douglas' speech so many years ago and Sojourner Truth. I can't say I felt like they did because I have never known the horrors they lived, but I thought of people celebrating and wondered if they thought about what they were celebrating. Holidays don't hold much importance for me. I love Halloween, just because it's fun, and I love carving pumpkins, the smell of the air, the crunching leaves when I'm out running and doling out candy, even though I abhor children eating it. But other holidays seem to have lost their true meaning and it seems many are very commercial. My sister always loved Christmas, the saddest aspect of that is that is the time of year she left us.

I arrived at my girl's house as she and her new guy were playing with Bean in the yard. It was a good feeling watching that. So normal, so "American Dream" like, house, swing set, fenced yard. Very much like the fifties, and Cheyenne is kind of a throw back place. One of those introspective moments that make you chuckle. Then I caught her guy's eye and he introduced himself to me, the greatest introduction I think I've ever experienced. "Hi I'm Steve, the flavor of the week." I laughed that he realized that he could possibly be the 'flavor of the week.'

I hugged Bean. The joy in that is just indescribable. What a joyful experience. I'm always amazed to see her. Watch her grow and discover the world thinking that she was that little being I saw come into the world. That seemed like yesterday.

Day 11 ~ July 3, 2010

As I crossed over into Nebraska the sun began to illuminate the sky. I drove down Route 79 in Nebraska, a quiet scenic road, or at least that is what it felt like. I hadn't seen another car in hours. I got out of the car to stretch and try and wake myself up after driving for five hours. The sky became lighter and lighter revealing the most beautiful colors, blue, purple, red, orange and pink, colors so vibrant it awoke my senses. "The morning is the most memorable season of the day" (HDT) I no longer felt tired.  I stood admiring nature's palette and listening. The first thing that struck me was total silence. Complete and total silence, so quiet it was loud. Not a sound except for the clicking of the old style windmill silhouetted against the orange sky and the quiet hum of my car's engine, which I turned off just to listen more intently.  I love those old wind mills, the sound, soft clinking, ticking, like a clock, the shape, the lines, the contours beautifully silhouetted against a perfect morning sky.

This is when you feel the spirit of the other world. It was the most beautiful moment I had experienced in a very long time. So peaceful and serene. I don't know how long I stood there. The silence and peacefulness was so nice I wanted to take in all in. This was one moment that I kept with me throughout my journey.

I thought about my sisters, one of them was turning fifty-seven today. I hadn't sent her a birthday card.

The road is farmland on both sides. "No Hunting" posted every so often. This struck me as sorrowful that a farmer has to post no hunting, isn't it obvious? The road stretches out in front of me bringing to mind Walt Whitman's poem "The Open Road," which I have thought of often on this trip. I have it with me in my car, his book I mean, "Leaves Of Grass."

The cows march along the fence in single file. Horses stand in the field swatting flies with their tails looking at me curiously when I slow to take a closer look at them.

I stopped at the Agate Fossil National Monument. Watched the video, walked through the grounds which they have interpretative sign posts about the animals that lived there 20 million years ago. Twenty million years ago, that astounds me, what has occurred in that time. Reminds me of a line in the movie "Grand Canyon," something like the amount of time we've been here is so small compared to how long time is. "You know what I felt like? I felt like a gnat that lands on the ass of a cow chewing his cud on the side of the road that you drive by doing 70 mph."  One of my all time favorite movies, Grand Canyon, so many great quotes and observations on life, love and societal changes. That was just how I felt. I wondered what the landscape looked like at that time. They have an idea, and exhibit drawing of what they believe it looked like, but I wondered what it really was like then. What was occurring on this day 20 million years ago? The ranger in Ohio discussed how the land had changed at the mounds.

On the way back to Scott's Bluff I stopped to take pictures of the cows. At first they just went about their business, sauntering along the fence line toward their destination, if they have one, as I stood watching them. When I pulled out my camera one stopped and looked at me, then another. The way they gathered together, nudging the other out it was as if they were saying "take my picture, not his." I laughed, they have so much character. After a while I realized I was creating a cow traffic jam and thought it best I say good bye. What beautiful creatures. I love looking into their eyes.

Day 10 ~ South Dakota Winds

South Dakota wind was an unexpected feature, and not very amusing! The campground had a cafe with breakfast, but trying to eat in the gale force winds was not so easy. I had breakfast with a couple of the other campers. I asked about the wind and a man, who I later learned was a trucker, at the table said "welcome to South Dakota!" and winked. Okay! After breakfast I had a fun time striking my tent in the wind as it blew all over. Yeah, not so fun.

The trucker came over and warned me about a storm heading from the Badlands. I told him I was heading to the Badlands, he said "ah you'll be fine, you look tough." He was right I drove through it pretty quickly.

The drive to the Badlands wasn't too bad, rain and threatening rain, but nothing serious. Driving into the Badlands was a bit depressing, run down places, tourist shops, and the like. The cheap type of shops to pick up trinkets and souvenirs that make their way into yard sales and junk piles. I needed a few camping things and saw along the way "Wall Drug" had supplies. The number of signs advertising Wall Drug should have been a hint to what type of place it was, but it didn't really register until I got closer to Wall. Anyone who has experienced South of the Border in South Carolina, or any large massive tourist trap you're on the right track. Very tacky, overwhelming and disappointing. Too many people! I couldn't leave fast enough.

The Badlands. One ranger said "the Badlands is always changing, always eroding."

The Badlands were formed by the geologic forces of deposition and erosion. Deposition of sediments began 69 million years ago when an ancient sea stretched across what is now the Great Plains. After the sea retreated, successive land environments, including rivers and flood plains, continued to deposit sediments. Although the major period of deposition ended 28 million years ago, significant erosion of the Badlands did not begin until a mere half a million years ago. Erosion continues to carve the Badlands buttes today. Eventually, the Badlands will completely erode away.

On the way back to my site I decided to check out another site to camp at. Twelve miles on a dirt road to a camping ground with no water and not much to look at, so I stayed where I had already planned. I drove through the Badlands and onto the reservation. Returning to the park through the south entrance I could see how the Badlands got the name "the wall" driving toward the gate it looked like it was just a solid wall of rock with no entrance. Massive desolate rock and pinnacles right in your face. Not much else happening so I returned, read a bit about the area, and had some water. You can never get enough water in the Badlands!!! I have never felt so dry, hot and parched, and my hair, yeah we won't go there. One word--straw!

Near sunset I drove out along the Badlands again. The moonscapes at sunset were striking. During the day the moonscape looked white and pale orange, not very impressive really, the size and how it formed, but not much else was grabbing me. But at sunset, that was a different story, the formations took on a completely different mood. The colors, tones and mood were extraordinary. They seem to come alive at the end of the day. Honestly, I had become bored with the formations, but the evening colors were quite striking and awe inspiring. I watched the sunset over the Badlands with a fellow camper who had a car just like mine, and a pup like I had many years ago when I was married. We chatted it up a bit as a storm rolled in. We decided to head back to the camp before it started to really rock, as we could see lightening off in the distance. Always a sign to take cover in the west.

The storm was a fantastic light storm, lightening lighting up the sky with the most amazing colors, the colors are amazing in the west. It always astonishes me the change, and the brilliance of color in the west.  No  rain, but heavy, heavy winds, again. I laid on the picnic table looking up at the night sky. It was really too warm to be in the tent, and the sky was too phenomenal not to marvel at. I don't know much about the constellations, but I could see the ones I knew so clearly. The stars appeared so close, as if you could reach up and grab them. I can't remember ever seeing so many stars. The night sky was dark, dark, like ebony, which accentuated the brightness of the millions of stars. I thought of setting up my camera but the wind was too strong.  Eventually, I took refuge in the tent as the wind got stronger and blew the pages of my book and knocked my light over. I laid in my tent fighting the wind and at times holding my tent up to keep it from collapsing around me, which eventually it did. At some point I drifted off only to be awakened to flashing lights all around me. A gust of wind came that nearly collapsed my tent; when I ventured out I saw that all the tent campers were gone except one other who was carrying his by the poles that became a kite as he approached his vehicle. I ended up striking mine and heading out.

Driving through the Badlands at night was eerie. The shadows that formed as the headlights bounced off the pinnacles, rocks and mud. Cold, dark and edgy. At times I felt the car driving into them. I headed to Rapid City, but with no options open for a place to stay I scratched going to Mt. Rushmore. Jamie said she wanted to go together anyway. I headed to Nebraska in the dark night along the scenic route, driving through reservations and national grasslands, no services anywhere, dead tired. Nothing around...nothing! Just me and the dark night, an occasional creature illuminated scurring across the road driving, driving on an endless road in solitude. 

Day 9 ~ Minnesota

Set off to St. Paul after hiking up Barn Bluff. Most of the trails were overgrown, and not knowing where the trails led I hiked to the north end of the bluff and looked down on Red Wing. Walked around Red Wing for part of the morning.

Mural capturing the history of Red Wing

Headed to Indian Mound Park in St. Paul, which happens to be a beautiful park in the middle of the city.

Located six huge mounds in the park and a great view of the city. Dedications to the original Americans can be found throughout the park. This sculpture was beautiful.

The eagles were soaring overhead calling out to the great spirit. Off to St. Anthony's Falls. Part of the fall is the property of the Univeristy of Minnesota, there was a small park that was packed with people. Limited parking so I didn't spend the time seeking out a parking spot, and instead headed toward Pipestone.

I drove the backroads to Pipestone, which is one the border of South Dakota and Minnesota. The river was overflowing into the road in many parts. The trees along the road were standing in water. I remembered the trees at Walden pond in the spring standing in water after the pond flooded. A local resident had told me they had twenty four days of rain just before I arrived.

Henderson is a small town, much like the small towns in Maine. A main road, appropriately named "Main Street." Very neat town, small boutiques and shops lining the neat streets. One of the sotre fronts grabbed my attention though "Toody's Treats." I stopped and walked around a bit, but with nothing happening I headed further down the road through Gaylord to Morton. Another out of the way town. It looked to be a thriving town at some point. Beautiful murals, although faded, covered the exteriors of the corner buildings. The people were different than any I had encountered. I'm not sure how I would describe them. Time warp was one thing that came to mind. When I walked in everyone turned to look at me. I must have had city dripping off of me from the looks I received. I grabbed a water and asked for some ice. When I got to the counter to pay I was behind a woman, slightly unkempt that tried every lighter on the rack. Staring at each one examining every aspect of it and lighting it again. I couldn't help but think of Jim. I mused at what his reaction might have been standing there watching this woman hold up the line, well actually just me, to try every one over and over.  As I was leaving a man came through the door who the cashier congratulated. His reply was "someone has to populate this town," which I found amusing as the town was sparsely populated.

I passed through Redwood Falls, another small town with beautiful murals that reminded much of Philadelphia. After passing through these small towns cars were replaced by horses, and again the landscape was dominated by cows and farms. More wind turbines. One farm had made one of the turbines into an airplane.

Just before Pipestone there was a bend in the road where both sides of the road were turbine farms. I stopped and stood in awe looking at them, and took take a few shots.

I was surprised at how loud they were. This was the first time I was this close to them that I could really experience the size and power of them. Standing under them they sounded like airplanes. I could understand why people had the NIMBY attitude they had about them standing under them. The size is just astounding!

I looked for a place to stay, but all the places I found were overloaded with RV's, so I headed to South Dakota. I found a place to hunker down for the night in Kennebec, South Dakota. The night breeze felt great. I fell asleep listening to the crickets chirping~such solitude. Covered a lot of miles in a day and was exhausted.

On changing landscapes

Up early, hiked up to Barn Bluff and took in Red Wing. Standing on that bluff you can feel how delicate life is. It was a windy day. I heard stories of people getting blown off. Looking down Red Wing looks like a child's city, you know those ones they can create out individual pieces. It is somewhat of a strenuous hike up the bluff, short but steep. I couldn't help but wonder how Thoreau managed it suffering with tuberculosis, and today there are stairs. His companion wrote that he seemed to be feeling better. I'm not sure he was healing, but perhaps the fresh air improved his mood and spirits, and after all he did love nature. Being in nature would lift anyone's mood I believe.

Driving up to St Paul the change in landscape came to mind. How the terrain and landscape has changed over the last thousand miles since I left eastern Pennsylvania. The farms and change in landscape it seems have impressed me the most. I'm not a highway person. I prefer to stay on back roads when ever possible. Not only because there is usually less traffic, but the scenery is always captivating and offers photographic opportunities not possible on a busy highway.

At Indian Mound Park I walked around the mounds and to Carver's Cave that Thoreau mentions, but incidentally is no longer there but consumed by modern society and vandals. Here, looking at St. Paul and watching the eagles soar I began thinking about the landscape and the changes of time and place I have observed over the last week.

The farms and unused land are probably the most captivating to me. Driving through the Berks and western Pennsylvania the farmland and forests. Into Ohio, which is pretty much like Pennsylvania, the untouched land. The land preserved in Ohio for the history of the original people of this country. Their mounds and areas they are believed to have lived and roamed. Southern Ohio's caves and parks and pristine land. From Ohio to Chicago was probably the most varied. In the morning I walked through the caves in a secluded park and ended the day in a large metropolitan area.

Ohio's farmland, cows, and horses give way to Indiana farmland and wind farms. Driving past the farms makes one wonder with all the farmland why are American's going hungry? Why are we growing corn for fuel and not for the less fortunate? Fuel is more important than feeding children?

The wind farms in Indiana were fascinating to me. In Indiana there were miles and miles and acre upon acre of wind turbines. It gives me hope to see so many of them. Living with the earth.

Then I came to a halt in traffic in Gary, Indiana. I began to think about Freidman's book here. All the people in cars, and generally one person to a car.  I was thinking about a paper I wrote when I lived in California on greenhouse gases, as I looked at all the cars, many SUV's surrounding me I remembered this one film I watched doing my research. The narrator explaining how greenhouse gases choke the earth like winding up a window in a car. Sitting there I thought of this and wondered, what are we doing? And where are we headed? Is anyone concerned?

Granted I was making this journey in my car, which is a fairly economical, environmental friendly. as far as most cars go, but it would have been an interesting journey I thought if I had someway to cross the country without a car. Not flying, but a train system and other modes of public transportation that would allow me to get where I was going with out the damage to the environment.

Now that would be a walkabout!

When I approached Chicago I encountered their "tollway." Even though this road is somewhat irritating, stopping, unless you have an express pass, every couple of miles to pay a toll. Is this to deter people from driving? Clearly people aren't concerned by the show of traffic around me. Do people even think of the environment when they are driving through these tolls, or are they just irritated by the inconvenience of it all?

After leaving Chicago I headed to Wisconsin, and again there was a vast change in the landscape and way of life. Back to farm land. The farms in Wisconsin were so neat. They had this comforting aspect to them. I thought how it would be interesting to talk to the people that lived there and even lend a hand for a while. Once again wind turbines began to dominate the landscape. The farms were different than the ones I saw in Pennsylvania, Ohio, Iowa, Illinois and Indiana. The shape of the land changed too. More rock boulders are visible along the road way that reminded me of the highways in Connecticut and Massachusetts.

The bluffs that arose as you headed north along the Mississippi were  a striking change in the landscape. the bluffs arise out of the earth and seem to grow as you drive toward the Upper Mississippi. Maiden Rock is awe inspiring towering over head as you stand and look up at it, eagles soaring over the top.  Driving into Minnesota, the land of 10,000 lakes there appears to be water everywhere, so clean, crisp and blue. Lake City is touted to be the birthplace of water skiing. Lake City is also the first city I came across that seemed worn out. I rarely went into the larger cities or towns, but this one just struck me as being tired and worn down. The tourist areas are well kept, clean and vibrant but the back part shows a different life. Changes in lifestyle and economic base clearly visible.

Onto St. Paul and the rest of my journey west.

Day 8 Minnesota

Morning came through the vents in the tent. A beautiful sunrise, birds singing, ducks honking and a flurry of activity happening in the forest. This is my favorite part of nature waking up in the morning to the fresh air, although I do admit I was not expecting the temperatures to dip quite as low as they did. It was quite exhilarating to arise in the brisk morning air.  Made a cup of tea, welcomed the morning with sun salutation and namaste!  watching the sun rise over the bluffs. The warmth of the sun was most welcome as it made its way over the horizon.

It was a chilly night of sleep. Keeping warm was an issue. Had it not been for the train horns blowing throughout the night I would have thought I was the only person around for miles. There was a train to the east in Wisconsin and one not to far, it sounded, from the park. They seemed to travel and sound their horns in unison.

Today, off to Barn Bluff and Lake Elmo. Possibly to St. Paul and Minneapolis. Thoreau is said to have climbed Barn Bluff and visited Indian Mounds Park in St. Paul. As it turned out Barn Bluff was teeming with kids cleaning the trails and lake Elmo was further than I wanted to drive and the traffic was heavy. I found myself at the top of the Great River Road "Anishinabe" meaning the Great River, also known as the Mississippi River. Met a wonderful lady at the visitors center, who gave me a plethora of information on the road and the region. I walked around the center, that had displays of the eagles, their habitat, nests and screech. I discovered the early morning screeching I heard was that of the resident eagles. A beautiful, yet eerie song.

Ventured up the memorial drive to the top of Skyline Drive for a view of Barn Bluff that is to the east of memorial park in Red Wing. On top of the bluffs there is a sense of appreciation of how high up you are. And how massive the bluffs are rising up from the earth below. The eagles and hawks soar over the bluffs, circling them continuously. What a sight.

Returned to the camp with the intention of climbing Barn Bluff and visiting Indian Mounds Park in St. Paul in the morning, then heading to South Dakota. A family has moved into the site beside me. They are a bit rowdy. They allowed their dogs to roam in my site. I talked to them a few times, they went to discuss it with the guy at the store. While I was there we started talking about my trip and where I had been. I told him a bit about Thoreau and passed a small book on to him, explained that Thoreau had been through the area 149 years earlier his final excursion. He seemed interested.

As the sun went down I listened to my new neighbors partying, yelling at the kids and the dogs. The cold and the train kept me from getting a good night sleep.

I awoke to something scratching at my tent. When I opened my eyes I couldn't quite focus on what was jumping at the bottom of the tent. When I looked up at the roof of the tent under the rain cover I noticed two small frogs perched on the top. When I stepped outside I noticed there were quite a few around the tent. I was rather amused at my protectors, and let them explore before striking my tent and moving on.

Day 7 Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota

Drove out of Iowa up the Great River Road in Wisconsin into Minnesota on the seventh day of my trip. The Great River Road follows the Mississippi River most of the way. Historic route with many historic signs explaining the settlement of the areas and the battles the native people had with the settlers moving in displacing them.  Many pull outs with breath taking views of the river and the dams along the Mississippi.

I stopped at the Trembelau National Refuge along the way, which is a five mile drive through the prairie, wetlands and natural landscape protected as a refuge for wildlife. The area was once used to farm, but since has been restored to its natural prairie setting. Again, a nice population of the red winged blackbirds. Also saw egrets, hawks and other migratory birds.

After driving through Alma, a small Wisconsin town, the bluffs begin to rise out of the landscape. Huge beautiful rocks towering over the highway. Laura Ingalls Wilder grew up in Pepin, WI. I stopped and read the sign posts about her life, then headed down the Laura Ingalls Highway toward Red Wing. I stopped at a roadside stand and bought some strawberries that were the best I had ever had.

Interesting rock formations drew me in. North of Maiden Rock a bow and arrow is outlined in rocks. Historians aren't quite sure what the significance of the bluff is, how it came to have the bow and arrow or who created it, since, according to the sign it wouldn't have been their custom to create such a design.

I drove into Minnesota around 3 PM. I began looking for a place to camp. The Frontenac State Park was the first camping ground I came to and was full of RV's and not many tent campers. I continued down the road to Hok-si-la Park.

Hok-si-la is a community park just north of Lake City, and one I had read about in a tent camping book I had picked up before I left. They don't want a lot of traffic in the park. They allow you time to unload your vehicle and park outside the park. Hok-si-la is a community park, beach, and playground. The best feature of the park is no vehicle traffic allowed, which makes for enjoyable hiking and exploring without the nuisance of vehicles. Very peaceful, secluded sites tucked into wooded areas that provide privacy and a sense of solitude.  Well the first night I was the only one in the park camping. It was very quiet and serene. My site was up on a cliff that over looked Pepin Lake and to the east I could see the bluffs I drove by earlier in the day.

I set up camp, fixed a bite to eat as an eagle flew over head. I was so amazed and in awe I forgot to grab my camera. Very unfortunate, he flew so close, right over head.  Beautiful massive bird soaring overhead was a beautiful experience, and I felt a good sign. I later learned that there is a refuge at the end of the park for the bald eagle that was instrumental in returning them to the area.

I watched the sun dip slowly behind the trees, the birds singing and the people enjoying the sunset on the beach below. The temperature seemed to plummet with the sun. I realized that I wasn't quite prepared for the chilly night temperatures.